V gobel\u00ednu americk\u00e9 historie existovalo obdob\u00ed, kdy region\u00e1ln\u00ed kulin\u00e1\u0159sk\u00e9 tradice vzkv\u00e9taly jako \u017eivouc\u00ed vl\u00e1kna. Od “bellywash” a “black cows” v bistrech po p\u0159\u00e1telsk\u00e1 setk\u00e1n\u00ed s Coca-Colou byly tyto kulin\u00e1\u0159sk\u00e9 zvyky ned\u00edlnou sou\u010d\u00e1st\u00ed m\u00edstn\u00ed kultury. Av\u0161ak p\u0159\u00edchod \u0159et\u011bzcov\u00fdch restaurac\u00ed a homogenizuj\u00edc\u00ed s\u00edly modern\u00ed v\u00fdroby potravin vedly k vyblednut\u00ed nebo vymizen\u00ed mnoha t\u011bchto cen\u011bn\u00fdch tradic.<\/p>\n\n
B\u011bhem Velk\u00e9 hospod\u00e1\u0159sk\u00e9 krize zah\u00e1jila Works Progress Administration (WPA) ambici\u00f3zn\u00ed projekt na zdokumentov\u00e1n\u00ed stravovac\u00edch n\u00e1vyk\u016f Ameri\u010dan\u016f. Projekt Federal Writers’ Project, divize WPA, pov\u011b\u0159il spisovatele, mezi n\u011b\u017e pat\u0159ily liter\u00e1rn\u00ed hv\u011bzdy jako Eudora Welty a Zora Neale Hurston, sestaven\u00edm rozs\u00e1hl\u00e9ho rukopisu nazvan\u00e9ho \u201eAmerica Eats\u201c. Tento nepublikovan\u00fd rukopis, ned\u00e1vno vzk\u0159\u00ed\u0161en\u00fd ve dvou knih\u00e1ch, poskytuje fascinuj\u00edc\u00ed pohled do kulin\u00e1\u0159sk\u00e9 krajiny minulosti.<\/p>\n\n
D\u00edlo Marka Kurlansk\u00e9ho \u201eThe Food of a Younger Land\u201c nab\u00edz\u00ed vynikaj\u00edc\u00ed v\u00fdb\u011br kulin\u00e1\u0159sk\u00fdch zaj\u00edmavost\u00ed ze severov\u00fdchodn\u00edho regionu. Tyto zapomenut\u00e9 tradice, vydolovan\u00e9 z rukopisu \u201eAmerica Eats\u201c, vykresluj\u00ed \u017eiv\u00fd obraz jedine\u010dn\u00fdch zp\u016fsob\u016f stolov\u00e1n\u00ed v regionu.<\/p>\n\n
Rhodeislandsk\u00e9 kv\u011btnov\u00e9 sn\u00eddan\u011b, opulentn\u00ed hostina pod\u00e1van\u00e1 1. kv\u011btna, maj\u00ed sv\u00e9 ko\u0159eny ve starov\u011bk\u00fdch \u0159\u00edmsk\u00fdch oslav\u00e1ch. Mezi kulin\u00e1\u0159sk\u00e9 lah\u016fdky, kter\u00e9 se pod\u00e1valy, pat\u0159ila studen\u00e1 va\u0159en\u00e1 \u0161unka, brambory se smetanovou om\u00e1\u010dkou a nep\u0159ebern\u00e9 mno\u017estv\u00ed kol\u00e1\u010d\u016f. Tato setk\u00e1n\u00ed, inspirovan\u00e1 Angli\u010dany, slou\u017eila jako symbolick\u00e9 p\u0159iv\u00edt\u00e1n\u00ed jarn\u00ed hojnosti.<\/p>\n\n
New York City bylo dlouho kulin\u00e1\u0159sk\u00fdm tavic\u00edm kotlem a hotely ve m\u011bst\u011b sehr\u00e1ly v\u00fdznamnou roli p\u0159i utv\u00e1\u0159en\u00ed americk\u00e9 kuchyn\u011b. Waldorfsk\u00fd sal\u00e1t, humr Newburg a p\u0159ekvapiv\u011b francouzsky zn\u011bj\u00edc\u00ed pol\u00e9vka vichyssoise maj\u00ed v\u0161echny sv\u016fj p\u016fvod v kuchyn\u00edch luxusn\u00edch hotel\u016f na Manhattanu.<\/p>\n\n
Automat, \u201emechanick\u00e1 j\u00eddelna\u201c, kter\u00e1 vyd\u00e1vala jednotliv\u00e9 porce j\u00eddla z mincovn\u00edch box\u016f, byla milovanou instituc\u00ed v New York City. Edward O’Brien, nad\u0161enec pro Automat, vychvaloval p\u0159ednosti tohoto stravovac\u00edho z\u00e1\u017eitku a zd\u016fraz\u0148oval nevy\u010derpatelnou l\u00e1sku m\u011bsta k v\u00fdhern\u00edm automat\u016fm, dobr\u00e9 k\u00e1v\u011b a sko\u0159icov\u00fdm \u0161nek\u016fm.<\/p>\n\n
Rhodeislandsk\u00e1 chowder z mu\u0161l\u00ed se svou v\u00fdraznou raj\u010datovou z\u00e1kladnou je zdrojem kulin\u00e1\u0159sk\u00e9 debaty. Kurlansky odhaluje, \u017ee tato pol\u00e9vka, kterou obyvatel\u00e9 Massachusetts \u010dasto odm\u00edtaj\u00ed jako \u201eManhattan Clam Chowder\u201c, ve skute\u010dnosti poch\u00e1z\u00ed od portugalsk\u00fdch a italsk\u00fdch kucha\u0159\u016f na Rhode Islandu. Debata o jej\u00edm prav\u00e9m p\u016fvodu v\u0159e dodnes.<\/p>\n\n
Kulin\u00e1\u0159sk\u00e9 tradice severov\u00fdchodn\u00edch Spojen\u00fdch st\u00e1t\u016f, kdysi \u017eiv\u00e9 a rozmanit\u00e9, byly utv\u00e1\u0159eny souhrou faktor\u016f. Od dokumenta\u010dn\u00edho \u00fasil\u00ed WPA po vzestup a p\u00e1d ikonick\u00fdch restaurac\u00ed nab\u00edzej\u00ed tyto tradice pohled do prom\u011bnliv\u00fdch zp\u016fsob\u016f stravov\u00e1n\u00ed v Americe. Jak se budeme no\u0159it do tradic jihu a z\u00e1padu, budeme i nad\u00e1le odhalovat bohatou tapiserii americk\u00e9 historie j\u00eddla.<\/p>","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"
Zem\u011b ztracen\u00fdch kulin\u00e1\u0159sk\u00fdch tradic: Cesta severov\u00fdchodn\u00edmi Spojen\u00fdmi st\u00e1ty Vzestup a p\u00e1d region\u00e1ln\u00edch j\u00eddeln\u00edch tradic V gobel\u00ednu americk\u00e9 historie existovalo obdob\u00ed, kdy region\u00e1ln\u00ed kulin\u00e1\u0159sk\u00e9 tradice vzkv\u00e9taly jako \u017eivouc\u00ed vl\u00e1kna. Od “bellywash”…<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":24584,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[130],"tags":[22692,22693,1388,22690,347,22695,22691,22688,22687,22694,22689],"class_list":["post-17213","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-food-and-drink","tag-automat","tag-clam-chowder","tag-culinary-heritage","tag-federal-writers-project","tag-food-history","tag-lobster-newburg","tag-may-breakfasts","tag-northeastern-foodways","tag-regional-cuisine","tag-vichyssoise","tag-wpa"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.lifescienceart.com\/cs\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/17213","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.lifescienceart.com\/cs\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.lifescienceart.com\/cs\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.lifescienceart.com\/cs\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/2"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.lifescienceart.com\/cs\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=17213"}],"version-history":[{"count":2,"href":"https:\/\/www.lifescienceart.com\/cs\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/17213\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":24585,"href":"https:\/\/www.lifescienceart.com\/cs\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/17213\/revisions\/24585"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.lifescienceart.com\/cs\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/24584"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.lifescienceart.com\/cs\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=17213"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.lifescienceart.com\/cs\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=17213"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.lifescienceart.com\/cs\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=17213"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}