V sam\u00e9m srdci Moskvy, ukryt\u00e1 na Tversk\u00e9 ulici, stoj\u00ed Aragvi, restaurace pros\u00e1kl\u00e1 histori\u00ed a intrikami. V sov\u011btsk\u00e9 \u00e9\u0159e bylo Aragvi m\u00edstem, kde se sch\u00e1zla smet\u00e1nka spole\u010dnosti, v\u010detn\u011b filmov\u00fdch hv\u011bzd, \u0161achov\u00fdch \u0161ampion\u016f, kosmonaut\u016f a dokonce i \u010dlen\u016f ob\u00e1van\u00e9 KGB.<\/p>\n\n
Pov\u00eddalo se, \u017ee Lavrentij Berija, Stalin\u016fv \u0161\u00e9f tajn\u00e9 policie, byl st\u00e1l\u00fdm hostem a \u010dasto ve\u010de\u0159el se Stalinov\u00fdm synem Vasilijem. Tak\u00e9 bylo zn\u00e1mo, \u017ee britsk\u00fd agent Kim Philby, kter\u00fd v roce 1963 p\u0159e\u0161el do SSSR, \u010dasto nav\u0161t\u011bvoval Aragvi, p\u0159itahov\u00e1n jeho autentickou gruz\u00ednskou kuchyn\u00ed.<\/p>\n\n
Ve m\u011bst\u011b, kde byly mo\u017enosti stravov\u00e1n\u00ed omezen\u00e9, vynikalo Aragvi jako kulin\u00e1\u0159sk\u00e1 o\u00e1za. Bylo to jedin\u00e9 m\u00edsto v Moskv\u011b, kde se dala ochutnat prav\u00e1 gruz\u00ednsk\u00e1 kuchyn\u011b, a to s 12str\u00e1nkov\u00fdm menu s \u0161irokou nab\u00eddkou j\u00eddel.<\/p>\n\n
Dekadentn\u00ed atmosf\u00e9ru restaurace zachytil re\u017eis\u00e9r Sergej Solovjov, kter\u00fd vzpom\u00ednal, jak byl \u0161okov\u00e1n bohat\u00fdmi pokrmy pod\u00e1van\u00fdmi v Aragvi. \u201eVid\u00edm to, jako by to bylo v\u010dera,\u201c \u0159ekl. \u201eP\u0159inesli n\u00e1m na st\u016fl na\u0161i objedn\u00e1vku lobia, satsivi, \u0161a\u0161lik, ku\u0159ec\u00ed j\u00e1tra a kavi\u00e1r\u2026 ale m\u011bl jsem takov\u00fd hlad, \u017ee jsem omdlel, ne\u017e \u010d\u00ed\u0161n\u00edk donesl na\u0161e tal\u00ed\u0159e.\u201c<\/p>\n\n
Krom\u011b sv\u00e9 kulin\u00e1\u0159sk\u00e9 pov\u011bsti bylo Aragvi zn\u00e1mo tak\u00e9 jako \u00fato\u010di\u0161t\u011b pro \u0161piony KGB. Podle b\u00fdval\u00e9ho agenta KGB Michaila Ljubimova byla v\u011bt\u0161ina zam\u011bstnanc\u016f restaurace b\u00fdval\u00fdmi d\u016fstojn\u00edky KGB a jednalo se o prvot\u0159\u00eddn\u00ed m\u00edsto pro n\u00e1bor nov\u00fdch \u0161pion\u016f. V Aragvi se \u010dasto po\u0159\u00e1daly rozlou\u010dkov\u00e9 ve\u010d\u00edrky pro agenty, kte\u0159\u00ed odch\u00e1zeli do zahrani\u010d\u00ed.<\/p>\n\n
Ljubimov vzpom\u00ednal na pam\u00e1tnou noc, kdy \u201ejeden z na\u0161ich mu\u017e\u016f pozval na tanec kr\u00e1snou \u017eenu, ani\u017e by si uv\u011bdomil, \u017ee ona sama je americk\u00e1 \u0161pionka a \u017ee j\u00ed KGB sleduje.\u201c<\/p>\n\n
Po rozpadu Sov\u011btsk\u00e9ho svazu Aragvi n\u011bkolikr\u00e1t zm\u011bnilo majitele a v roce 2003 bylo nakonec uzav\u0159eno. V roce 2018 v\u0161ak skupina Ta\u0161ir a investor Gor Nachapetjan investovali nemal\u00e9 prost\u0159edky do obnovy restaurace do jej\u00ed n\u011bkdej\u0161\u00ed sl\u00e1vy.<\/p>\n\n
V hlavn\u00edch j\u00eddeln\u00e1ch st\u00e1le vis\u00ed sov\u011btsk\u00e9 n\u00e1st\u011bnn\u00e9 malby zobrazuj\u00edc\u00ed traktory, d\u011bln\u00edky a snopy kuku\u0159ice, ale menu bylo aktualizov\u00e1no se zam\u011b\u0159en\u00edm na autentickou kuchyni \u010cern\u00e9ho mo\u0159e, v\u010detn\u011b j\u00eddel jako jsou knedl\u00edky chinkali a sekan\u00fd sal\u00e1t pchali.<\/p>\n\n
I kdy\u017e se atmosf\u00e9ra restaurace pon\u011bkud zm\u011bnila, jeho majitel\u00e9 se sna\u017e\u00ed zachovat jeho jedine\u010dnou historii. Doufaj\u00ed, \u017ee vyu\u017eij\u00ed pov\u011bsti Aragvi jako m\u00edsta setk\u00e1v\u00e1n\u00ed \u0161pion\u016f a celebrit a p\u0159il\u00e1kaj\u00ed hosty, kte\u0159\u00ed maj\u00ed z\u00e1jem o jeho minulost z dob studen\u00e9 v\u00e1lky.<\/p>\n\n
Nicm\u00e9n\u011b p\u0159esn\u00e9 obnoven\u00ed atmosf\u00e9ry studen\u00e9 v\u00e1lky by bylo obt\u00ed\u017en\u00e9. Jak poznamen\u00e1v\u00e1 Ljubimov, \u201eV\u0161echno bylo odposlouch\u00e1v\u00e1no, ch\u00e1pete? Ale ka\u017ed\u00fd v\u011bd\u011bl, \u017ee pokud jste v Aragvi: nemluvte, bu\u010fte potichu.\u201c<\/p>\n\n
Dnes z\u016fst\u00e1v\u00e1 Aragvi kulin\u00e1\u0159skou a historickou pam\u00e1tkou v Moskv\u011b. Je to m\u00edsto, kde mohou n\u00e1v\u0161t\u011bvn\u00edci ochutnat autentickou gruz\u00ednskou kuchyni a z\u00e1rove\u0148 se pono\u0159it do bohat\u00e9 a slo\u017eit\u00e9 minulosti m\u011bsta. Od skromn\u00fdch za\u010d\u00e1tk\u016f jako obl\u00edben\u00e9 \u00fato\u010di\u0161t\u011b sov\u011btsk\u00fdch \u0161pion\u016f a\u017e po sou\u010dasn\u00fd status obl\u00edben\u00e9 turistick\u00e9 destinace Aragvi nep\u0159est\u00e1v\u00e1 fascinovat a zauj\u00edmat n\u00e1v\u0161t\u011bvn\u00edky z cel\u00e9ho sv\u011bta.<\/p>","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"
Aragvi: legend\u00e1rn\u00ed moskevsk\u00e1 restaurace \u0161pion\u016f a celebrit \u00dato\u010di\u0161t\u011b sov\u011btsk\u00e9 elity V sam\u00e9m srdci Moskvy, ukryt\u00e1 na Tversk\u00e9 ulici, stoj\u00ed Aragvi, restaurace pros\u00e1kl\u00e1 histori\u00ed a intrikami. V sov\u011btsk\u00e9 \u00e9\u0159e bylo Aragvi…<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[1176],"tags":[226,27,113,63,1174,1175,769,773,770],"class_list":["post-455","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-history-and-culture","tag-gastronomy","tag-history","tag-food","tag-culture","tag-moscow","tag-celebrities","tag-espionage","tag-spies","tag-cold-war"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.lifescienceart.com\/cs\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/455","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.lifescienceart.com\/cs\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.lifescienceart.com\/cs\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.lifescienceart.com\/cs\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.lifescienceart.com\/cs\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=455"}],"version-history":[{"count":1,"href":"https:\/\/www.lifescienceart.com\/cs\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/455\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":456,"href":"https:\/\/www.lifescienceart.com\/cs\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/455\/revisions\/456"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.lifescienceart.com\/cs\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=455"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.lifescienceart.com\/cs\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=455"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.lifescienceart.com\/cs\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=455"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}