The Rise and Fall of Regional Foodways

In the tapestry of American history, there was a time when regional food traditions flourished like vibrant threads. From bellywash and black cows in luncheonettes to convivial Coca-Cola gatherings, these culinary customs were an integral part of local culture. However, the advent of chain restaurants and the homogenizing forces of modern food production have led to the fading or disappearance of many of these cherished traditions.

The WPA’s Culinary Legacy

During the Great Depression, the Works Progress Administration (WPA) embarked on an ambitious project to document the eating habits of Americans. The Federal Writers’ Project, a division of the WPA, tasked writers, including literary luminaries like Eudora Welty and Zora Neale Hurston, with compiling a vast manuscript titled “America Eats.” This unpublished manuscript, recently resurrected in two books, provides a fascinating glimpse into the culinary landscape of the past.

Northeastern Delights

Mark Kurlansky’s “The Food of a Younger Land” offers a delectable selection of culinary tidbits from the Northeast region. These forgotten traditions, unearthed from the America Eats manuscript, paint a vivid picture of the region’s unique foodways.

Rhode Island’s May Breakfasts

Rhode Island’s May Breakfasts, an opulent feast served on May 1st, have their roots in ancient Roman celebrations. Cold boiled ham, creamed potatoes, and a myriad of pies were among the culinary delights on offer. These gatherings, inspired by the English, served as a symbolic welcome to the bounty of spring.

New York City’s Culinary Innovations

New York City has long been a culinary melting pot, and the city’s hotels have played a significant role in shaping American cuisine. Waldorf Salad, Lobster Newburg, and the surprisingly French-sounding Vichyssoise soup all originated in the kitchens of Manhattan’s grand hotels.

The Automat: A Mechanical Lunchroom

The Automat, a “mechanical lunchroom” that dispensed single servings of food from coin-operated cubicles, was a beloved institution in New York City. Edward O’Brien, an Automat enthusiast, extolled the virtues of this dining experience, highlighting the city’s enduring love for slot machines, good coffee, and cinnamon buns.

Rhode Island Clam Chowder: A Culinary Controversy

Rhode Island Clam Chowder, with its distinctive tomato base, is a source of culinary debate. Kurlansky reveals that this chowder, often dismissed as “Manhattan Clam Chowder” by Massachusetts residents, actually originated with Portuguese and Italian cooks in Rhode Island. The debate over its true origins continues to simmer today.

A Journey Continues

The culinary traditions of the Northeast, once vibrant and diverse, have been shaped by a confluence of factors. From the WPA’s documentation efforts to the rise and fall of iconic eateries, these traditions offer a glimpse into the evolving foodways of America. As we delve into the traditions of the South and West, we will continue to uncover the rich tapestry of American food history.

A Taste of History

The Berger cookie, a cherished symbol of Baltimore, has been delighting locals for nearly two centuries. Its unique combination of a cake-like base and a generous mound of hand-dipped dark fudge icing has sparked fond memories and a sense of home for generations of Charm City natives.

Henry Berger, a German immigrant and skilled baker, introduced the Berger cookie to Baltimore in 1835. Originally sold from stalls in the city’s public markets, the cookies quickly became a local favorite. Over the years, the recipe has remained largely unchanged, with only minor modifications to reduce saturated fat content.

A Baltimore Tradition

The Berger cookie is deeply ingrained in Baltimore culture. Its distinctive black-and-white appearance has become synonymous with the city, and it is often served at special occasions and gatherings. Berger cookie stands can still be found in Baltimore’s Lexington and Cross Street markets, offering a taste of the city’s culinary heritage.

The Importance of Hand-Dipping

One of the defining characteristics of the Berger cookie is its hand-dipped icing. Four dedicated employees dip each cookie individually, ensuring a consistent and generous coating of chocolate. While automation could increase efficiency, owner Charlie DeBaufre remains committed to preserving the integrity of the cookie’s traditional production method.

Expanding Horizons

While Berger cookies were once primarily enjoyed within Baltimore, they have gradually gained popularity beyond the city limits. Customer demand and word-of-mouth have led to increased distribution, with Berger cookies now available in major supermarkets and shipped across the country.

A testament to its enduring appeal, the Berger cookie has even found its way into the hands of Hollywood celebrities. A Baltimore native living in California sent holiday tins of the cookies to clients like 20th Century Fox, Paramount Pictures, and Steven Spielberg, introducing them to a taste of her hometown tradition.

The Secret Ingredient

According to DeBaufre, the secret ingredient that makes Berger cookies so special is the love and care that goes into their production. He takes pride in the quality of his product and believes that the cookies are more than just a sweet treat – they are a piece of Baltimore’s culinary history.

Challenges and Successes

Despite its popularity, the Berger cookie faces challenges in keeping up with demand. The company’s commitment to hand-dipping and the limited production capacity often lead to sellouts. However, DeBaufre is hesitant to compromise on quality or increase automation, as he believes that the unique taste and texture of the Berger cookie are worth the wait.

A Culinary Icon

The Berger cookie is more than just a dessert; it is a symbol of Baltimore’s culinary heritage, a taste of childhood memories, and a source of local pride. Its enduring popularity is a testament to the enduring appeal of tradition and the power of a well-made sweet treat.