Overview

Canna bulbs, technically known as rhizomes, are a popular choice for gardeners in northern climates with specialized care. In warmer climates, canna bulbs can remain in the ground over winter, but in colder climates, they must be dug up and stored to prevent freezing damage. This process is relatively quick and easy, but it’s important to follow the proper steps to ensure the bulbs survive the winter and thrive the following spring.

When to Dig Up Canna Bulbs

The ideal time to dig up canna bulbs for winter storage is in the fall after the foliage has died back but before the first deep frost. Light surface frost won’t harm the bulbs, but a hard freeze can damage or kill them.

Materials You’ll Need

• Trowel, shovel, or garden fork
• Newspapers or paper bags
• Peat moss or vermiculite

Instructions

1. Digging Up the Bulbs

• Use a digging tool to carefully loosen the soil around the canna bulbs.
• Avoid damaging the bulbs or their roots.
• Gently lift the bulbs out of the soil and remove any loose soil.

2. Cleaning the Bulbs

• Cut back the foliage to 2-3 inches from the top of each bulb.
• Gently wash off any loose soil, but avoid scrubbing the bulbs as this can damage them.

3. Curing the Bulbs

• Before storing canna bulbs, it’s essential to cure them by air-drying them in a warm, dry location for seven days. A well-ventilated garage or closet is a suitable place for curing.
• Curing toughens up the outer skins of the bulbs, making them more resistant to rot during storage.

4. Wrapping and Storing the Bulbs

• Wrap each individual bulb in newspaper or a small paper bag.
• Include a small amount of dry, sterile growing medium, such as peat moss or vermiculite, to absorb moisture and prevent rot.
• Place the wrapped bulbs in a cardboard box or large paper bag, ensuring they don’t touch each other.
• Store the bulbs in a cool, dry location that doesn’t fall below 40 degrees Fahrenheit.

5. Monitoring the Bulbs

• Periodically inspect the bulbs over winter.
• If you find any signs of rot, discard the affected bulbs or trim away the rotten portions.
• In spring, inspect the bulbs again and discard any that are soft or rotten. Replant the healthy bulbs as soon as the ground has thawed and all danger of frost has passed.

Troubleshooting

• If you lose a few bulbs to rot or desiccation during storage, don’t be discouraged. It’s common for some bulbs to not survive the winter, especially in colder climates.
• To prevent rot, ensure the bulbs are thoroughly dry before storing them and monitor them regularly for any signs of moisture or damage.
• If you’re storing canna bulbs in pots, cut back the foliage to soil level and move the pots to a cool, dry location that won’t freeze.

Additional Tips

• You can propagate new canna plants by cutting offshoots from the main bulbs. Do this in the spring or fall, and dust the cuts with sulfur powder to prevent fungal infections.
• Canna bulbs can also be stored in a refrigerator, but this method requires more frequent monitoring and can lead to dehydration.
• If you have a large number of canna bulbs to store, consider using a labeled storage rack or container to keep them organized and easily accessible.

By following these steps, you can successfully dig up, cure, and store your canna bulbs for winter, ensuring they remain healthy and ready to thrive the following growing season.

Understanding Tomato Ripening

When tomatoes reach their full green size, they undergo a ripening process that involves the production of lycopene, the pigment that gives them their red color. This process is triggered by a natural hormone called ethylene.

Temperature

Temperature plays a crucial role in tomato ripening. Ideal temperatures range from 68 to 77 degrees Fahrenheit. Temperatures above 85 degrees inhibit lycopene production, slowing or even halting ripening. Conversely, temperatures below 60 degrees can also delay ripening.

Sunlight

While tomatoes need sunlight for growth, too much direct sunlight can hinder ripening. The heat generated by intense sunlight can raise temperatures to levels that inhibit lycopene production. Pruning leaves away from mature tomatoes to increase sun exposure can also cause sunscald and cracking.

Water

Tomato plants require regular watering, but excessive watering can slow down ripening. Once fruits reach their mature size, reducing or stopping irrigation can stress the plant and trigger survival mode, redirecting energy towards ripening to produce viable seeds.

Nutrients

Tomatoes need a balanced supply of nutrients, including phosphorus and potassium, which are essential for lycopene production. Insufficient phosphorus and potassium can result in slow or uneven ripening. Fertilize plants with a fertilizer higher in phosphorus, such as NPK 5-10-5, when the first small fruits appear.

Nitrogen

While nitrogen is important for tomato growth, excessive nitrogen can hinder ripening. Fertilizing with a product that contains too much nitrogen can divert energy towards foliage growth, slowing down fruit ripening. Once mature fruits are on the vine, withhold fertilizer and allow natural ripening processes to occur.

Pruning

Pruning tomato plants by removing early suckers redirects energy towards fruit production and ripening. Overloaded vines or vines with unproductive suckers can struggle to produce ripe tomatoes. Early pruning promotes higher quality fruit that ripens more easily and quickly.

Variety

It’s important to note that different tomato varieties ripen to different colors, including shades of red, orange, pink, purple, and even striped. If you’re waiting for your tomatoes to turn red, check the seed package for the expected color of the ripe fruit.

Additional Tips

• Check your seed package for the estimated harvest time for your tomato variety, as different varieties have varying ripening periods.
• If green tomatoes have reached their full size, they can be ripened off the vine in a warm indoor location.
• Small, hard, underdeveloped green fruits are unlikely to turn red and should be composted.
• Avoid over-fertilizing, as excessive nutrients can harm the plants.
• Regularly monitor plants for pests and diseases that can affect ripening.
• Harvest tomatoes when they are fully ripe and slightly soft to the touch.

Hydrangeas: A Deer Delicacy

Unfortunately, hydrangeas are not deer-resistant plants. Deer find the soft, succulent blooms and leaves of hydrangeas irresistible. This can be a major problem for gardeners, as deer can quickly decimate a prized hydrangea collection. However, there are steps you can take to protect your hydrangeas from these hungry pests.

Understanding Deer Behavior

To effectively deter deer from your hydrangeas, it’s important to understand their behavior. Deer prefer tender, young plants that are high in moisture. Hydrangeas fit this description perfectly, making them a prime target for deer.

While deer tend to avoid strong-smelling plants and those with tough, thorny textures, they may still resort to eating these plants if other food sources are scarce. Therefore, it’s essential to implement a comprehensive deer-deterrent strategy to protect your hydrangeas.

Effective Deer Deterrent Techniques

1. Plant Deer-Resistant Companions

Surrounding your hydrangeas with plants that deer tend to avoid can help deter them from your prized blooms. Some deer-resistant companion plants include:

• Ageratum
• Angel’s Trumpet
• Cleome
• Dusty Miller
• Flowering tobacco
• Forget-me-nots
• Heliotrope
• Larkspur
• Poppy
• Pot marigold
• Snapdragon
• Strawflower
• Sweet alyssum

2. Motion-Activated Sprinklers and Lights

Motion-activated sprinklers and lights can be effective deer deterrents. The sudden burst of water or light can startle deer and cause them to flee the area.

3. Dogs

Dogs are natural predators of deer, and their presence in the garden can be a powerful deterrent. Even the sound of a dog barking can be enough to scare deer away.

4. Fencing

Adding a tall fence around your garden can be an effective way to keep deer out. However, fences can be expensive and may not be practical for all gardeners.

5. Chicken Wire Mats

Laying down chicken wire mats on the ground can deter deer from walking over the area. Cover the wire with a thin layer of mulch or pine straw for a more natural appearance.

6. Commercial Deer Repellent Sprays

Commercial deer repellent sprays can contain ingredients such as garlic, capsicum pepper, or putrid egg solids. These sprays can be effective, but they need to be reapplied regularly, especially after rain or irrigation.

7. DIY Deer Repellent Spray

You can also make your own deer repellent spray using eggs and water. Simply blend three whole eggs with two cups of water and pour the mixture into a garden sprayer. Add enough water to make one gallon and shake well to combine. Spray the mixture on your plants until the leaves are wet and shiny. Reapply every two weeks or after a rain.

Hydrangea Varieties That Deer Avoid

While no hydrangeas are completely deer-resistant, some varieties are less appealing to these hungry pests. These varieties include:

• Bracted Hydrangea (Hydrangea involucrata): The leaves are fuzzy, and the flowers are smaller and less tender than other varieties.
• Climbing Hydrangea (Hydrangea anomala petiolaris): Mature plants have woody stems, and the blossoms are often out of the easy reach of deer.

Hydrangea Varieties Deer Love

The following hydrangea varieties are favorites of deer:

• Bigleaf Hydrangea (Hydrangea macrophylla)
• Oakleaf Hydrangea (Hydrangea quercifolia)
• Smooth Hydrangea (Hydrangea arborescens)
• Panicle Hydrangea (Hydrangea paniculata)

These varieties produce tender, young shoots in spring and an abundance of buds and blooms, making them irresistible to deer.

Frequently Asked Questions

Q: How do you keep deer from eating hydrangeas?

A: Implementing a comprehensive deer-deterrent strategy is key, including surrounding hydrangeas with deer-resistant plants, using motion-activated sprinklers or lights, installing fencing or chicken wire mats, and applying deer repellent sprays.

Q: Which hydrangea is deer resistant?

A: Bracted Hydrangea and Climbing Hydrangea are less appealing to deer due to their fuzzy leaves or elevated blossoms.

Q: What flowers do deer hate the most?

A: Deer tend to avoid strong-smelling plants and those with tough, thorny textures. Some of the most deer-resistant flowering annuals include ageratum, angel’s trumpet, cleome, dusty miller, flowering tobacco, forget-me-nots, heliotrope, larkspur, poppy, pot marigold, snapdragon, strawflower, and sweet alyssum.

Planting Heirloom Tomatoes

Heirloom tomatoes are beloved for their exceptional flavors and rich history. Growing these prized plants is surprisingly straightforward, especially with the right techniques.

• When to Plant: Spring is the ideal time to plant heirloom tomatoes, after the threat of frost has passed.
• Selecting a Planting Site: Choose a sunny location with well-drained soil. Avoid planting in areas where tomatoes or related plants (e.g., peppers, eggplant) have been grown recently to minimize disease risk.
• Spacing, Depth, and Support: Space plants 2-3 feet apart, depending on their variety. Set seedlings deeply to strengthen their support systems. Consider using tall cages or trellises for support as heirloom tomatoes can become large and robust.

Heirloom Tomato Plant Care

• Light: Heirloom tomatoes require ample sunlight, at least six hours per day.
• Soil: Thriving heirloom tomatoes prefer rich, slightly acidic soil with a pH of 6.0-6.8. Improve heavy clay soil with raised beds or container culture.
• Water: Water deeply and regularly, especially during fruit production. Avoid overwatering and allow soil to dry out slightly between waterings to prevent problems like cracking and blossom end rot.
• Temperature and Humidity: Heirloom tomatoes thrive in warm temperatures, with night temperatures above 60 degrees Fahrenheit. Humid conditions are generally not a concern for these plants.
• Fertilizer: Fertilize regularly with a balanced fertilizer to support growth and fruit production.

Types of Heirloom Tomatoes

There are countless varieties of heirloom tomatoes, each with its unique characteristics. Here are a few popular types:

• Brandywine: Known for its large, pinkish-red fruits with a complex, flavorful taste.
• Black Krim: Originating from Russia, this variety boasts sweet, robustly flavored maroon fruits.
• Aunt Ruby’s German Green: These beefsteak tomatoes remain green until harvest, offering a perfect balance of sweet and tangy flavors.

Heirloom Tomatoes vs. Hybrid Tomatoes

While heirloom and hybrid tomatoes may appear similar, they differ in some key aspects. Heirloom tomatoes are open-pollinated, meaning they can be grown from saved seeds and will produce plants identical to the parent plant. Hybrid tomatoes, on the other hand, are developed by crossbreeding different varieties and cannot be reliably grown from saved seeds.

Harvesting Heirloom Tomatoes

Heirloom tomatoes are ready for harvest when their color begins to peak. Leaving them on the vine for too long can encourage cracking. Green-ripening varieties may be tricky to judge, but they typically shift from mint green to chartreuse or streaky green as they approach maturity. The fruits will also soften slightly.

Growing Heirloom Tomatoes in Pots

For space-limited gardeners or those who prefer the flexibility of container gardening, heirloom tomatoes can be successfully grown in pots.

• Choosing the Right Pot: Use a large pot (12-16 inches for young plants, 24 inches for larger plants) with drainage holes.
• Soil: Select a high-quality potting mix with good drainage and organic matter.
• Water and Fertilize: Container-grown tomatoes need more frequent watering and fertilization than those grown in the ground. Water daily and fertilize every two weeks with a balanced fertilizer.

Pruning Heirloom Tomatoes

Pruning can improve plant productivity and manage growth.

• Removing Suckers: Remove suckers at the plant base to direct energy towards fruit production.
• Pruning Side Shoots: Prune side shoots that appear between the stem and branches to reduce the number of fruiting branches and increase fruit size.

Propagating Heirloom Tomatoes

Tomato cuttings can be easily rooted to create new plants.

• Taking Cuttings: Choose suckers that are at least 6 inches long and remove the lower leaves, leaving two at the top.
• Rooting Cuttings: Plant the cuttings in a pot of rich potting soil or a glass of water. Keep the medium moist and provide bright, indirect light.

Growing Heirloom Tomatoes from Seed

Starting heirloom tomatoes from seed is a cost-effective way to grow these plants.

• Sowing Seeds: Sow seeds ¼ inch deep into moist, sterile potting soil. Keep the soil warm and provide bright, indirect light or grow lights.

Potting and Repotting

• Young Plants: Start young tomato plants in 1-gallon or larger pots.
• Repotting: Repot into larger pots as plants outgrow their containers. Use premium potting soil with good drainage.

Common Pests and Plant Diseases

Pest and disease resistance vary among different heirloom tomato varieties. Common pests include tomato hornworms, aphids, and flea beetles. Fungal diseases and bacterial infections can also affect heirloom tomatoes, particularly in humid conditions.

Additional Tips for Growing Heirloom Tomatoes

• Companion Planting: Planting basil, chives, or mint near heirloom tomatoes can deter pests and improve flavor.
• Mulching: Mulching around tomato plants helps retain moisture and suppress weeds.
• Watering: Water deeply and regularly, especially during fruit production.
• Fertilizing: Fertilize regularly with a balanced fertilizer to support growth and fruit production.
• Pruning: Prune suckers and side shoots to improve productivity and fruit size.
• Pest and Disease Control: Monitor plants regularly for pests and diseases, and take appropriate control measures as needed.

Botanical Overview

English lavender, scientifically known as Lavandula angustifolia, is an aromatic and visually appealing perennial. Belonging to the Lamiaceae family, it is characterized by its semi-woody growth habit and fragrant leaves and flowers. Commonly cultivated for its captivating scent and medicinal properties, English lavender is a popular choice for gardens and home décor.

Cultivation Requirements

Sunlight: English lavender thrives in full sun, requiring at least six hours of direct sunlight per day. While it can tolerate partial shade, optimal growth and flowering occur in sunnier conditions.

Soil: The ideal soil for English lavender is well-draining, slightly sandy or gritty, and leans towards the drier side. Avoid overly moist or humusy soils, as they can promote root rot.

Water: Water young plants regularly, especially during the first week after planting. Established lavender plants are drought-tolerant and prefer infrequent watering. Water only when the soil feels dry to the touch, approximately once a week during the growing season and less frequently during cooler months.

Temperature and Humidity: English lavender prefers warm, dry conditions. It is not well-suited to humid climates and can be damaged by temperatures below zero degrees Fahrenheit without protective cover.

Fertilizer: Fertilizing English lavender is generally not necessary and may even hinder flowering. Avoid using fertilizers that are high in nitrogen, as they can encourage leaf growth at the expense of blooms.

Types of English Lavender

Various cultivars of English lavender offer a range of sizes, flower colors, and growth habits. Some popular varieties include:

• L. angustifolia ‘Hidcote’: Compact variety with dark purple blooms
• Lavandula x intermedia ‘Hidcote Giant’: Larger cultivar with bright violet flower spikes
• L. angustifolia ‘Munstead’: Mounding variety with rosy-purple blooms
• L. angustifolia ‘Sarah’: Dwarf cultivar with medium purple flowers, suitable for containers
• L. angustifolia ‘Jean Davis’: Slow-growing variety with light pink blooms

Pruning and Maintenance

Pruning:

• Remove faded flower stalks to encourage continued blooming.
• Prune lightly in spring after new growth appears, removing about one-third of the green stalks.
• In late summer or early fall, prune again to improve air circulation and prevent rot.
• Every three years or so, shear plants to eight inches from the ground in early spring to control size and promote new growth.

Propagation:

English lavender is easily propagated through stem cuttings. To propagate:

• Take six-inch-long cuttings from non-flowering shoots.
• Remove the lower leaves.
• Dip the cut ends in rooting hormone.
• Plant cuttings in well-draining potting soil or sand.
• Keep cuttings in partial shade and water regularly until rooted.

Common Diseases and Pests

English lavender is relatively disease-resistant, but it can be susceptible to:

• Leaf spot: Remove affected leaves and improve air circulation.
• Root rot: Avoid overwatering and ensure well-draining soil.

Overwintering

In colder climates, English lavender may require protection during winter. Mulch plants with organic materials such as straw or bark to insulate the roots. In areas with heavy snowfall, protective covers may be necessary.

Harvesting and Uses

• Harvest lavender flowers just as they open.
• Hang bunches upside down in a cool, dark, and well-ventilated room to dry.
• Dried lavender flowers can be used in sachets, potpourri, and aromatherapy.

Frequently Asked Questions

Q: Is English lavender easy to care for?

A: Yes, English lavender is relatively low-maintenance if provided with the proper growing conditions. It prefers dry, well-draining soil, full sun, and infrequent watering.

Q: How fast does English lavender grow?

A: English lavender has a moderately slow growth rate. Pruning new growth in the spring helps maintain a rounded shape, while avoiding pruning woody stems promotes longevity.

Q: What is the difference between English and French lavender?

A: French lavender (Lavandula stoechas) prefers warmer climates and is less cold-hardy than English lavender. It is also more sensitive and less durable.

Q: Can English lavender be grown indoors?

A: Yes, English lavender can be grown indoors in pots. Provide bright, direct sunlight for at least four to six hours per day and maintain low humidity levels.

Pansies are popular garden flowers known for their tolerance of cold temperatures and colorful blooms. However, they can be damaged or killed by extreme cold, so it’s important to take steps to protect them during winter.

What Temperature Will Kill Pansies?

Both soil and air temperature affect pansy health. Air temperatures below 25°F for just a few hours can send them into dormancy, and temperatures below 20°F can cause plants to die back completely. Frozen soil and drying winter winds can also contribute to plant loss.

How to Prepare Pansies for Cold Temperatures

• Choose the right location: Plant pansies in a location that receives at least six hours of sunlight daily and is protected from cold winds.
• Amend the soil: Pansies prefer well-drained soil with a pH between 6.0 and 6.5. Amend the soil with organic matter, such as compost or peat moss, to improve drainage and fertility.
• Mulch: A thick layer of mulch, such as straw or shredded leaves, helps to retain moisture and insulate the roots from cold temperatures.
• Water regularly: Pansies require consistently moist soil, so water them regularly, especially during dry spells.
• Fertilize: Fertilize pansies every two to four weeks with a balanced fertilizer.

How to Care for Pansies Through Winter

• Protect from frost: Cover pansies with row covers or blankets when frost is forecast.
• Water regularly: Check the soil regularly for moisture and water pansies when the soil feels dry to the touch.
• Fertilize: Fertilize potted pansies every two weeks and bedding plants monthly with an all-purpose fertilizer.
• Deadhead: Remove spent blooms to encourage new growth.

Will Pansies Come Back After a Freeze?

Pansies grown in southern climates are more likely to survive an occasional freeze and even bounce back when covered with snow. However, pansies grown in colder climates may be damaged or killed by extended periods of freezing temperatures.

If your pansies have been frozen, don’t give up on them just yet. Once temperatures warm up a bit and plants receive sufficient sun, they may begin to form new buds and recover.

How to Revive Pansies After Frost

• Remove damaged foliage: Remove any damaged flowers or foliage that has turned mushy or black.
• Water deeply: Make sure the soil is kept moist.
• Prune lightly: Prune back any remaining damaged foliage once the danger of frost has passed and plants begin to put out new growth.
• Fertilize: Feed pansies with a fertilizer high in phosphorus to help them recover from the cold stress.

Tips for Growing Pansies in Cold Climates

• Choose cold-hardy varieties: Some pansy varieties are more cold-tolerant than others. Look for varieties that are labeled as “winter pansies” or “ice pansies.”
• Start pansies indoors: Start pansies indoors 6-8 weeks before the last frost date in your area. This will give them a head start and help them to develop strong roots before being transplanted outdoors.
• Harden off pansies: Gradually expose pansies to outdoor conditions for a week or two before transplanting them. This will help them to acclimate to the colder temperatures.
• Plant pansies deeply: When transplanting pansies, plant them deeply, so that the base of the plant is slightly below the soil surface. This will help to protect the roots from cold temperatures.
• Protect pansies from wind: Plant pansies in a sheltered location, such as near a building or foundation shrub, to protect them from cold, drying winds.

By following these tips, you can help your pansies survive the winter and enjoy their beautiful blooms all season long.

Understanding Moisture Meters

Moisture meters are handheld devices that measure the moisture content in soil. They are essential tools for gardeners and plant enthusiasts as they provide accurate readings of soil moisture, eliminating the guesswork involved in watering plants.

Benefits of Using Moisture Meters

Moisture meters offer several key benefits:

• Prevent Overwatering and Underwatering: Moisture meters help prevent overwatering and underwatering, two common problems that can harm plants.
• Accurate Readings: They provide precise readings of soil moisture, ensuring that plants receive the optimal amount of water.
• Convenience: Moisture meters are easy to use and provide instant readings, making it convenient to monitor soil moisture.

How Moisture Meters Work

Moisture meters use the principle of electrical resistance to measure soil conductivity. Water conducts electricity well, so higher moisture content results in higher electrical currents. Conversely, drier soil has lower electrical currents.

Using a Moisture Meter

Materials:

• Moisture meter
• Plant

Instructions:

1. Insert Probe: Gently insert the metal probe about 4/5 of the way into the soil. Avoid forcing the probe to prevent damage.
2. Wait: Allow 30-60 seconds for the meter to register a reading.
3. Read Results: Moisture meters typically display results on a numerical scale or a scale indicating dryness to wetness. Color-coding is often used for clarity.

Interpreting Results

The results of a moisture meter should be interpreted in conjunction with the specific plant’s needs. For example, cacti and succulents prefer dry soil, while ferns and calatheas thrive in consistently moist soil.

Types of Moisture Meters

There are different types of moisture meters available:

• Basic Moisture Meters: Measure soil moisture only.
• Three-Way Meters: Measure soil moisture, light conditions, and soil pH.

Common Problems with Moisture Meters

• No Reading: If the meter does not provide a reading after 60 seconds, wipe the probe and try a different location.
• Bouncing Needle: If the needle bounces around, the probe may be touching a rock or metal object in the soil. Try a different location.
• Inaccurate Readings in Salty Soil: Moisture meters may provide inaccurate readings in soil with high salt content.

Maintenance and Storage

• Cleaning: Wipe the probe with a clean, dry cloth after each use.
• Storage: Store the moisture meter in a dry location when not in use. Do not leave it in soil as this can damage the probe.

Tips for Using Moisture Meters

• Calibrate the meter regularly according to the manufacturer’s instructions.
• Use the meter in multiple locations around the plant to get an average moisture reading.
• Consider the plant’s specific water needs when interpreting the results.
• Supplement moisture meter readings with manual soil checks to ensure accuracy.

Conclusion

Moisture meters are valuable tools for optimizing plant watering practices. By understanding how they work and using them correctly, gardeners and plant enthusiasts can ensure that their plants receive the necessary moisture to thrive.

Understanding Tomato Suckers

Tomato suckers are side shoots that grow at the junction of the stem and a branch. If left unchecked, these suckers will develop into полноценно stems with their own branches, flowers, fruit, and more suckers.

Benefits of Pruning Tomato Suckers

Pruning tomato suckers offers several benefits for plant health and fruit production:

• Improved plant health: Removing suckers redirects nutrients to the main stem, promoting healthier overall growth and larger, more robust plants.

• Increased fruit size: By eliminating competition for nutrients, pruning suckers allows the plant to focus its energy on producing larger, higher-quality fruit.

• Enhanced airflow: Pruning improves airflow through the plant, reducing the risk of disease by allowing leaves to dry faster after rain.

• Pest control: Removing suckers makes it easier to spot pests that may be camouflaged within dense foliage.

• Faster fruit ripening: Pruning stimulates the plant to divert energy into fruit development, speeding up the ripening process.

How to Prune Tomato Suckers

The earlier you prune tomato suckers, the easier it will be. Follow these steps:

1. Snap off small suckers: Use your bare hands to snap off any suckers that are about 1/2 inch in size.
2. Cut thicker stems: For stems thicker than a pencil, use pruning shears to avoid damaging the plant.
3. Remove lower leaves: Prune leaves near the base of the plant to prevent soil-borne diseases.
4. Regular maintenance: Trim suckers and unnecessary flowers on a weekly basis during the peak growing season.
5. Clean your shears: Disinfect your pruning shears with an alcohol wipe before moving between plants to prevent the spread of disease.

Pruning Considerations

Not all tomato suckers need to be removed. Mature plants may benefit from retaining some suckers to support additional fruit production. However, avoid over-pruning, as some leaves are necessary to protect the fruit from sunscald.

Types of Tomatoes and Pruning

The need for pruning varies depending on the type of tomato:

• Indeterminate tomatoes: These vine-like varieties, such as cherry tomatoes and Beefsteak, benefit from pruning to control their size and encourage fruit production.

• Determinate tomatoes: These more compact varieties, such as Roma and Celebrity, do not require pruning as they naturally stop growing after setting fruit.

Timing of Pruning

Pruning can be performed throughout the growing season:

• At planting: Remove the lower leaves and bury the stem deeply to promote root growth and stability.
• During the growing season: Remove suckers beneath the first fruit cluster to enhance fruit development.
• Late-season pruning (topping): About four weeks before the expected first frost, remove the growing tip of each main stem to direct energy into fruit ripening.

Trial and Error in Pruning

Tomato pruning is more an art than an exact science. Start by pruning less rather than more. Over time, you will develop a better understanding of how different varieties respond to pruning.

Botanical Background

Gladiolus, commonly known as sword lilies or flag flowers, belong to the Iridaceae family. These fast-growing plants are characterized by their stately height, often reaching 2-5 feet tall. Their unique trumpet-shaped flowers bloom from bottom to top on sword-like stems, adding a touch of drama to gardens and bouquets alike.

Planting and Care

• Soil: Gladiolus thrive in well-draining soil. While they can tolerate shallow planting, placing the bulbs at least 6 inches deep provides support for emerging shoots.

• Sunlight: These plants perform best in full sun, but can also bloom in partial shade.

• Water: Water newly planted gladiolus bulbs well. Subsequently, water them weekly.

• Temperature and Humidity: Gladioli prefer warm temperatures and bloom from July until frost. Plant bulbs when night temperatures reach 60 degrees Fahrenheit, ensuring they receive at least five hours of sunlight daily.

• Fertilizer: Fertilize newly emerged gladioli shoots with a balanced, 10-10-10 liquid fertilizer.

Propagation

Start with premium-sized gladiolus corms for optimal bloom production. While smaller bulbs may be available at a reduced cost, larger corms yield more flowers on stronger stalks. Avoid overwatering during the initial planting period to prevent rot.

Overwintering

In zones 8 and warmer, gladiolus may perennialize. However, most gardeners treat them as annuals. When the first frost strikes, dig up the bulbs for winter storage. Dry them for several weeks and store them in a cool, dry place.

Common Pests and Diseases

Thrips are occasional pests of gladiolus. These tiny insects can cause brown foliage tips and flecked leaves. Treat infestations with insect soap.

Specific Varieties

• ‘Atom’: Features red petals with a white picotee border.
• ‘Boone’: Displays yellow blooms with coral accents, known for its hardiness to zone 6.
• ‘Green Lace’: Boasts ruffled chartreuse flowers.
• ‘Lucky Star’: Unique for its fragrance, exhibiting white petals with red throats.

Creating a Dramatic Display

• Companion Planting: Gladiolus make excellent companions for vegetable gardens, attracting pollinators to enhance fruit and vegetable yields. Interplant gladiolus corms between rows of spring veggies like peas and lettuce.

• Concealing Ungainly Phases: Gladioli may appear ungainly when not in bloom. Hide their awkward appearance by planting them behind medium to tall plants that bloom when the gladioli are finished, such as zinnias or dahlias.

• Staking: Keep gladioli off the ground to prevent drooping by using plant stakes or single stem supports.

Troubleshooting

• Planting Too Early: Gladioli do not respond well to early planting. Waiting until night temperatures reach 60 degrees Fahrenheit ensures optimal growth.

• Overwatering: Avoid excessive watering, as it can lead to rot. Water only when the soil feels dry to the touch.

• Insufficient Sunlight: Gladioli require full sun to produce abundant blooms. Providing at least five hours of sunlight daily is crucial.

• Thrips Infestation: Treat thrips infestations promptly with insect soap to prevent foliage damage.

• Toxicity: Gladiolus corms are toxic to humans, livestock, and pets. Ingestion can cause stomach upset, while animals may experience nausea, diarrhea, and lethargy. Contact a veterinarian immediately if animals have consumed corms.

Additional Tips

• Extend the Blooming Season: Plant new corms every two weeks to extend the blooming period.
• Pinch Back Dead Flowers: Remove spent flowers to encourage new growth and prevent seed production.
• Cut Back After Blooming: When the plant has finished blooming, cut the bloom stalk to ground level unless you plan to dig and store the bulbs.

In the digital age, gardening “hacks” promising to enhance plant growth and save time and money abound. However, according to seasoned gardening professionals, these hacks may not always live up to their claims.

Debunking Common Gardening Myths

We consulted three experts to identify the top gardening “hacks” to avoid. Their insights may surprise you, as they range from ineffective to potentially harmful:

Plant Drainage: Avoid Rocks at the Bottom of Pots

A widespread misconception is that adding a layer of rocks or pebbles at the bottom of plant pots improves drainage. However, this practice can actually hinder drainage, especially in pots without drainage holes.

“The rocks don’t aid drainage and can even decrease it if the layer is too thick,” explains Justin Hancock, a certified horticulturist at Costa Farms.

Instead, fill pots to the top with the chosen potting medium and opt for pots with drainage holes, especially for outdoor plants. To enhance drainage further, incorporate additives like perlite, pumice, or sand.

For ceramic planters lacking drainage holes, consider DIY methods to add them.

Weed Control: Avoid Landscape Fabric in Flower Beds

Landscape fabric is commonly used to suppress weeds in flower beds, but Mary Phillips, head of native plant habitat strategy at the National Wildlife Federation, advises against it.

“Made from synthetic materials, landscape fabric is not sustainable or beneficial for soil health,” Phillips says.

Instead, opt for organic mulches like shredded leaves or bark. Implement strategic planting techniques to prevent weeds, such as spacing plants closely or using living groundcovers between shrubs and trees.

Seed Starting: Avoid Planting Seeds in Eggshells

Using empty eggshells to start seedlings may seem eco-friendly and convenient, as they can be planted directly in the ground. However, Carrie Spoonemore, co-creator of the gardening app From Seed to Spoon, cautions against this practice.

“Seeds planted in eggshells may lack adequate space and drainage for healthy root development,” Spoonemore explains.

Eggshells also decompose slowly in the soil, inhibiting root growth and delaying the release of nutrients. Additionally, improperly cleaned eggshells could introduce harmful bacteria to seedlings.

Reuse eggshells by crushing them and adding them to compost or garden soil to provide calcium and other nutrients.

Homemade Fertilizers: Use with Caution

Homemade fertilizers and pesticides can be tempting, but Hancock advises against relying solely on them.

“While it may seem convenient or environmentally friendly, homemade products can be ineffective or even harmful to plants,” Hancock says. “They may lack essential nutrients or contain forms of nutrients that plants cannot utilize.”

Instead, determine the specific soil conditions and nutrient requirements of your plants and use proven, high-quality fertilizers or soil amendments. If you choose to experiment with homemade solutions, use them sparingly alongside commercial products.

Sustainable Gardening Practices

Beyond avoiding ineffective or harmful hacks, embrace sustainable gardening practices to promote plant health and environmental well-being:

• Organic Mulches: Use organic mulches like shredded leaves or bark to conserve moisture, suppress weeds, and improve soil health.
• Living Groundcovers: Plant low-growing groundcovers between larger plants to prevent weed growth and enhance soil stability.
• Composting: Create your own nutrient-rich compost by composting kitchen scraps, yard waste, and eggshells.
• Water Conservation: Implement water-saving techniques like drip irrigation and rainwater harvesting.
• Native Plants: Choose native plants that are adapted to your local climate and require minimal maintenance.

By avoiding common gardening pitfalls and adopting sustainable practices, you can cultivate a thriving and healthy garden.