{"id":3891,"date":"2024-07-03T20:44:41","date_gmt":"2024-07-03T20:44:41","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.lifescienceart.com\/?p=3891"},"modified":"2024-07-03T20:44:41","modified_gmt":"2024-07-03T20:44:41","slug":"unisex-fashion-history-gender-bending-style","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.lifescienceart.com\/vi\/uncategorized\/unisex-fashion-history-gender-bending-style\/","title":{"rendered":"Th\u1eddi trang phi gi\u1edbi t\u00ednh: H\u00e0nh tr\u00ecnh ph\u00e1 v\u1ee1 \u0111\u1ecbnh ki\u1ebfn v\u1ec1 gi\u1edbi"},"content":{"rendered":"

Th\u1eddi trang phi gi\u1edbi t\u00ednh: L\u1ecbch s\u1eed c\u1ee7a phong c\u00e1ch ph\u00e1 v\u1ee1 chu\u1ea9n m\u1ef1c gi\u1edbi t\u00ednh<\/h2>\n\n

S\u1ef1 tr\u1ed7i d\u1eady c\u1ee7a th\u1eddi trang phi gi\u1edbi t\u00ednh<\/h2>\n\n

Tr\u01b0\u1edbc nh\u1eefng n\u0103m 1960, thu\u1eadt ng\u1eef “phi gi\u1edbi t\u00ednh” hi\u1ebfm khi \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c s\u1eed d\u1ee5ng. Nh\u01b0ng v\u1edbi s\u1ef1 tr\u1ed7i d\u1eady c\u1ee7a phong tr\u00e0o n\u1eef quy\u1ec1n v\u00e0 c\u00e1ch m\u1ea1ng t\u00ecnh d\u1ee5c, trang ph\u1ee5c \u0111\u00e3 b\u1eaft \u0111\u1ea7u tho\u00e1t kh\u1ecfi nh\u1eefng chu\u1ea9n m\u1ef1c gi\u1edbi t\u00ednh truy\u1ec1n th\u1ed1ng.<\/p>\n\n

V\u00e0o gi\u1eefa nh\u1eefng n\u0103m 1960, thu\u1eadt ng\u1eef “phi gi\u1edbi t\u00ednh” xu\u1ea5t hi\u1ec7n \u0111\u1ec3 m\u00f4 t\u1ea3 c\u00e1c ti\u1ec7m l\u00e0m t\u00f3c cung c\u1ea5p ki\u1ec3u t\u00f3c t\u01b0\u01a1ng t\u1ef1 cho c\u1ea3 nam v\u00e0 n\u1eef. \u0110\u1ebfn gi\u1eefa nh\u1eefng n\u0103m 1970, th\u1eddi trang phi gi\u1edbi t\u00ednh \u0111\u00e3 tr\u1edf th\u00e0nh m\u1ed9t hi\u1ec7n t\u01b0\u1ee3ng ph\u1ed5 bi\u1ebfn, \u1ea3nh h\u01b0\u1edfng \u0111\u1ebfn m\u1ecdi th\u1ee9, t\u1eeb nu\u00f4i d\u1ea1y tr\u1ebb em \u0111\u1ebfn n\u01a1i l\u00e0m vi\u1ec7c.<\/p>\n\n

Th\u1eddi trang nh\u01b0 m\u1ed9t ch\u1ea5t x\u00fac t\u00e1c<\/h2>\n\n

Th\u1eddi trang \u0111\u00f3ng m\u1ed9t vai tr\u00f2 quan tr\u1ecdng trong s\u1ef1 tr\u1ed7i d\u1eady c\u1ee7a th\u1eddi trang phi gi\u1edbi t\u00ednh. V\u00e0o n\u0103m 1968, t\u1edd New York Times l\u1ea7n \u0111\u1ea7u ti\u00ean s\u1eed d\u1ee5ng t\u1eeb “phi gi\u1edbi t\u00ednh” \u0111\u1ec3 m\u00f4 t\u1ea3 \u0111\u00f4i gi\u00e0y “Monster” c\u7b28n. Ngay sau \u0111\u00f3, c\u00e1c c\u1eeda h\u00e0ng b\u00e1ch h\u00f3a v\u00e0 danh m\u1ee5c \u0111\u00e3 t\u1ea1o ra c\u00e1c ph\u1ea7n m\u1edbi cho trang ph\u1ee5c “d\u00e0nh cho c\u1ea3 anh \u1ea5y v\u00e0 c\u00f4 \u1ea5y”, v\u1edbi h\u00ecnh \u1ea3nh c\u00e1c c\u1eb7p \u0111\u00f4i m\u1eb7c trang ph\u1ee5c \u0111\u1ed3ng \u0111i\u1ec7u.<\/p>\n\n

Th\u1eddi trang phi gi\u1edbi t\u00ednh nh\u01b0 m\u1ed9t s\u1ef1 ph\u1ea3n \u00e1nh c\u1ee7a s\u1ef1 thay \u0111\u1ed5i x\u00e3 h\u1ed9i<\/h2>\n\n

Th\u1eddi trang phi gi\u1edbi t\u00ednh kh\u00f4ng ch\u1ec9 nh\u1eb1m m\u1ee5c \u0111\u00edch g\u00e2y b\u1ed1i r\u1ed1i cho m\u1ecdi ng\u01b0\u1eddi. N\u00f3 \u0111\u00f3ng vai tr\u00f2 l\u00e0 bi\u1ec3u t\u01b0\u1ee3ng c\u1ee7a nhi\u1ec1u phong tr\u00e0o kh\u00e1c nhau nh\u1eb1m th\u00e1ch th\u1ee9c c\u00e1c vai tr\u00f2 gi\u1edbi t\u00ednh truy\u1ec1n th\u1ed1ng.<\/p>\n\n

Trong “cu\u1ed9c c\u00e1ch m\u1ea1ng c\u00f4ng” v\u00e0o cu\u1ed1i nh\u1eefng n\u0103m 1960, nam gi\u1edbi \u0111\u00e3 ch\u1ea5p nh\u1eadn c\u00e1c h\u1ecda ti\u1ebft v\u00e0 m\u00e0u s\u1eafc l\u00f2e lo\u1eb9t trong nh\u1eefng chi\u1ebfc \u00e1o s\u01a1 mi theo phong c\u00e1ch th\u1eddi Edward v\u00e0 qu\u1ea7n b\u00f3. Nh\u00e0 thi\u1ebft k\u1ebf Rudi Gernreich \u0111\u00e3 t\u1ea1o ra nh\u1eefng phong c\u00e1ch t\u01b0\u01a1ng lai, phi gi\u1edbi t\u00ednh, bao g\u1ed3m c\u1ea3 b\u1ed9 \u0111\u1ed3 b\u01a1i kh\u00f4ng m\u1eb7c \u00e1o d\u00e0nh cho ph\u1ee5 n\u1eef v\u00e0 “\u00c1o ng\u1ef1c kh\u00f4ng g\u1ecdng” kh\u00f4ng c\u00f3 g\u1ecdng ho\u1eb7c \u0111\u1ec7m.<\/p>\n\n

V\u00e0o nh\u1eefng n\u0103m 1970, trang ph\u1ee5c phi gi\u1edbi t\u00ednh \u0111\u00e3 xu\u1ea5t hi\u1ec7n d\u01b0\u1edbi d\u1ea1ng nh\u1eefng b\u1ed9 \u0111\u1ed3 denim ch\u1eafp v\u00e1 v\u00e0 “\u0111\u1ed3 m\u1eb7c nh\u00e0” b\u1eb1ng v\u1ea3i n\u1ec9 ph\u00f9 h\u1ee3p cho c\u1ea3 gia \u0111\u00ecnh. Xu h\u01b0\u1edbng n\u00e0y ph\u1ea3n \u00e1nh s\u1ef1 ph\u1ed5 bi\u1ebfn ng\u00e0y c\u00e0ng t\u0103ng c\u1ee7a vi\u1ec7c nu\u00f4i d\u1ea1y con c\u00e1i kh\u00f4ng ph\u00e2n bi\u1ec7t gi\u1edbi t\u00ednh, v\u00ec cha m\u1eb9 c\u1ed1 g\u1eafng nu\u00f4i d\u1ea1y con c\u00e1i c\u1ee7a m\u00ecnh m\u00e0 kh\u00f4ng b\u1ecb r\u00e0ng bu\u1ed9c b\u1edfi nh\u1eefng khu\u00f4n m\u1eabu gi\u1edbi t\u00ednh truy\u1ec1n th\u1ed1ng.<\/p>\n\n

Th\u1eddi trang phi gi\u1edbi t\u00ednh trong th\u1ebf k\u1ef7 21<\/h2>\n\n

Th\u1eddi trang phi gi\u1edbi t\u00ednh suy y\u1ebfu v\u00e0o gi\u1eefa \u0111\u1ebfn cu\u1ed1i nh\u1eefng n\u0103m 1970 khi m\u1ecdi ng\u01b0\u1eddi t\u00ecm ki\u1ebfm phong c\u00e1ch b\u1ea3o th\u1ee7 h\u01a1n trong th\u1eddi k\u1ef3 suy tho\u00e1i kinh t\u1ebf. Tuy nhi\u00ean, m\u1ed9t s\u1ed1 y\u1ebfu t\u1ed1 phi gi\u1edbi t\u00ednh v\u1eabn t\u1ed3n t\u1ea1i, ch\u1eb3ng h\u1ea1n nh\u01b0 qu\u1ea7n d\u00e0i d\u00e0nh cho ph\u1ee5 n\u1eef.<\/p>\n\n

Trong nh\u1eefng n\u0103m g\u1ea7n \u0111\u00e2y, th\u1eddi trang phi gi\u1edbi t\u00ednh \u0111\u00e3 c\u00f3 s\u1ef1 h\u1ed3i sinh, m\u1ed9t ph\u1ea7n l\u00e0 nh\u1edd nh\u1eefng ng\u01b0\u1eddi n\u1ed5i ti\u1ebfng nh\u01b0 Jaden Smith, ng\u01b0\u1eddi \u0111\u00e3 m\u1eb7c v\u00e1y v\u00e0 ch\u00e2n v\u00e1y nhi\u1ec1u l\u1ea7n. S\u1ef1 h\u1ed3i sinh n\u00e0y ph\u1ea3n \u00e1nh nh\u1eefng th\u00e1ch th\u1ee9c v\u00e0 tranh c\u00e3i li\u00ean t\u1ee5c xung quanh b\u1ea3n d\u1ea1ng v\u00e0 s\u1ef1 th\u1ec3 hi\u1ec7n gi\u1edbi t\u00ednh.<\/p>\n\n

T\u00ednh linh ho\u1ea1t v\u1ec1 gi\u1edbi v\u00e0 t\u01b0\u01a1ng lai c\u1ee7a th\u1eddi trang<\/h2>\n\n

Th\u1eddi trang phi gi\u1edbi t\u00ednh ti\u1ebfp t\u1ee5c ph\u00e1t tri\u1ec3n, ph\u1ea3n \u00e1nh b\u1ea3n ch\u1ea5t ng\u00e0y c\u00e0ng linh ho\u1ea1t c\u1ee7a gi\u1edbi. Qu\u1ea7n \u00e1o kh\u00f4ng c\u00f2n ch\u1ec9 l\u00e0 m\u1ed9t c\u00e1ch \u0111\u1ec3 th\u1ec3 hi\u1ec7n gi\u1edbi t\u00ednh m\u00e0 c\u00f2n l\u00e0 \u0111\u1ec3 truy\u1ec1n \u0111\u1ea1t c\u00e1 t\u00ednh, s\u1ef1 s\u00e1ng t\u1ea1o v\u00e0 \u00fd th\u1ee9c x\u00e3 h\u1ed9i.<\/p>\n\n

Nh\u00e0 nghi\u00ean c\u1ee9u th\u1eddi trang Jo Paoletti cho r\u1eb1ng trang ph\u1ee5c c\u00f3 s\u1ef1 ph\u00e2n chia r\u00f5 r\u00e0ng v\u1ec1 gi\u1edbi t\u00ednh h\u1ea1n ch\u1ebf kh\u1ea3 n\u0103ng th\u1ec3 hi\u1ec7n b\u1ea3n th\u00e2n th\u1ef1c s\u1ef1 c\u1ee7a ch\u00fang ta. B\u00e0 h\u00ecnh dung v\u1ec1 m\u1ed9t t\u01b0\u01a1ng lai m\u00e0 t\u1ee7 qu\u1ea7n \u00e1o c\u1ee7a ch\u00fang ta ph\u1ea3n \u00e1nh m\u1ecdi kh\u1ea3 n\u0103ng, cho ph\u00e9p ch\u00fang ta \u0103n m\u1eb7c theo c\u00e1ch th\u1ec3 hi\u1ec7n b\u1ea3n th\u00e2n b\u00ean trong v\u00e0 t\u00f4n vinh b\u1ea3n s\u1eafc \u0111a d\u1ea1ng c\u1ee7a m\u00ecnh.<\/p>\n\n

K\u1ebft lu\u1eadn<\/h2>\n\n

Th\u1eddi trang phi gi\u1edbi t\u00ednh c\u00f3 m\u1ed9t l\u1ecbch s\u1eed l\u00e2u \u0111\u1eddi v\u00e0 ph\u1ee9c t\u1ea1p, ph\u1ea3n \u00e1nh s\u1ef1 giao thoa c\u1ee7a nh\u1eefng thay \u0111\u1ed5i x\u00e3 h\u1ed9i, ch\u00ednh tr\u1ecb v\u00e0 v\u0103n h\u00f3a. N\u00f3 \u0111\u00e3 th\u00e1ch th\u1ee9c c\u00e1c chu\u1ea9n m\u1ef1c gi\u1edbi t\u00ednh truy\u1ec1n th\u1ed1ng, g\u00e2y ra nhi\u1ec1u tranh c\u00e3i v\u00e0 ti\u1ebfp t\u1ee5c ph\u00e1t tri\u1ec3n nh\u01b0 m\u1ed9t ph\u01b0\u01a1ng ti\u1ec7n th\u1ec3 hi\u1ec7n b\u1ea3n th\u00e2n v\u00e0 b\u00ecnh lu\u1eadn x\u00e3 h\u1ed9i.<\/p>","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Th\u1eddi trang phi gi\u1edbi t\u00ednh: L\u1ecbch s\u1eed c\u1ee7a phong c\u00e1ch ph\u00e1 v\u1ee1 chu\u1ea9n m\u1ef1c gi\u1edbi t\u00ednh S\u1ef1 tr\u1ed7i d\u1eady c\u1ee7a th\u1eddi trang phi gi\u1edbi t\u00ednh Tr\u01b0\u1edbc nh\u1eefng n\u0103m 1960, thu\u1eadt…<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":23805,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[1],"tags":[7265,7264,1188,3244,7263],"class_list":["post-3891","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-uncategorized","tag-individual-expression","tag-gender-bending","tag-fashion-history","tag-social-change","tag-unisex-fashion"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.lifescienceart.com\/vi\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/3891","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.lifescienceart.com\/vi\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.lifescienceart.com\/vi\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.lifescienceart.com\/vi\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.lifescienceart.com\/vi\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=3891"}],"version-history":[{"count":1,"href":"https:\/\/www.lifescienceart.com\/vi\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/3891\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":3892,"href":"https:\/\/www.lifescienceart.com\/vi\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/3891\/revisions\/3892"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.lifescienceart.com\/vi\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/23805"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.lifescienceart.com\/vi\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=3891"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.lifescienceart.com\/vi\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=3891"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.lifescienceart.com\/vi\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=3891"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}